• 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Driver Door Module
• 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Driver Door Wiring Diagram Diagram
• Jeep Grand Cherokee Driver Side Mirror

It seems no one has solved this puzzle yet, but I'll give it a shot of my own. Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated. '97 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 135,000 miles Various warning lights Power comes on at night Instrument cluster & gages haywire Stalling Dead battery overnight Feedback in speakers Repeatedly blown 20A fuse on engine fuse block Turns over, but now won't catch Replaced: Ignition switch & ignition cylinder block, cam sensor, throttle position sensor.

Cost: $750 Tried: new battery, unplugging PCM computer, checked all fuses. And the alternator checked out all right. Any ideas?the dealer in stumped. (replacing the PCM computer seems to only have a 50% success rate). I would check to see if any 'recalls' have been made on that model to include 1yr. Before/after your yr. With all the problems, it can include the wire harness and the panel/gauges themselves as they are now so electronic.

If you can, remove the gauge panel and inspect it, its not unknown to have flaked flat wires peel away or burnt. To include the electronics, etc., thus you may want to know a junk yard to salvage such parts rather buy new, as they cost. On top of all this, the parts cost, it maybe just so dang hard to remove/service buried parts like the gauge panel so proceed at own risk. Couldn't beleive it worked!

After checking all possible problems and suggestions from friends, I got lucky. Windows not working, gauges not working, ac not working,intreior lights not working on door opening on entry, flasher lights not working from wireless remote, overhead console not working, getting a code auto zone reading from his handheld remote dig checker,(1686) and not knowing what it was refering to. He said i would have to call a dealer and get an answer. They didn't know either!

I was giving up! Until I ran across you site and remember a response about his 1997 jeep cherokee stating he diconnected his battery for 10 minutes and it fixed his problem.

Well I disconnected my negitive for 20 minutes, then reconnected and started up. EVERYTHING WAS WORKING AGAIN!!!!!! Thanks whomever you are for that answer. Simple and sweet and my headache is gone now and i still have a little money in the bank! Similar thing happened to me this morning.tried to unlock the driver's side door using the remote entry key fob.

Nothing happened.so unlocked the door using the key. Once inside, the interior door unlock switch didn't work.nor did the window switches. Read in the blogs about possible resolutions. Went with the simplist first. Disconnected the negative battery cable for 30 seconds and then reconnected. All problems fixed. At least in this case, it appears that the electrical problems were related to the PCI Bus. Blues brothers torrent download ita.

Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery seemed to act like rebooting a home computer.cleared the problems and now good to go. If anyone is having similar problems, I suggest trying this super simple fix first before doing complicated testing or parts replacements. In my 2002 GC V-8, identical symptoms lead to broken ground wire in door harness between the door and the body. Problems were intermittent for a year, then failed completely, leading me to dig into it. Symptoms all pointed to something common with all control functions on the drivers door. Broken wire was obvious. Grabbed the rubber protective sleeve and work it loose at the door - it fits over a plate in the connector and can just be lifted with a blunt tool and pulled back.

Fix was simple - strip back both sides of broken wire, made a jumper out of three inches of identical wire, crimped a butt connector on both ends - made a loop in the jumper for flexibility, two crimps later I was back in business. Wish I'd done it a year ago. Driving to go shopping, my 'driver door open' alert came on along with the interior light.

Of course.opened and closed the driver door while in transit, the light went off.but the alert and light came back on a few minutes later! Pulled into the shopping parking lot, I opened and closed the driver door a few times. Discovered the problem was intermittent. Diagnosis, loose or broken wire at the driver door.

When I got home i looked for the trouble in the likeliest place.the rubber flex boot between the driver door and the car body. Pulled back the flex boot with a little effort and saw a previous repair connection on the heavy bue wire! Someone had this problem before! (previous owner) pulled on this wire and out it came. Caught the other end hanging in mid air. I 'Soldered' these wires back!

The small wire nuts that were holding it together were loose. Turned on the jeep and tried the window buttons.Nothing! Looked further into the flex boot.the heavy Orange/White wire was severed! Soldered a wire to both ends and taped everything up.

Boom.turned on the car and checked the window buttons.Success!!! So some looking into the flex boot on the driver door and some wire and solder and tape and I'm back in business. I hope that my experience with this helps someone else having this kind of trouble.

Hi, I've just had the same problem with my GC Limited 2000 model, I took the door trim panel off, then checked wiring back to harness that passes through the door to body to fuse box, I checked all of the fuses they were fine. I then took the black rubber boot off the door where the multi plug is, I noticed a black wire that had broken, I then tried to find this on the car interior side but no luck, I then decided to take it to a local auto electrician, I left the panel off then showed him what I had found, he said leave it with him, 3 hours later he told me he had sorted it, he told me that the wiring is very tight and that Jeep/Chrysler were always sparse in giving extra wiring that's why this happens. He charged me £45 sterling, so I was happy to pay this, and this was on Tuesday of this week. I thought this was a result as I was looking to be paying mega bucks for this.

Just as a matter of course, I took the bulb out of the door panel that lights up when you open the door, please bear in mind my vehicle is RHD as I live in the U.K. So I took the bulb out of the Passenger side LHS to you, then put it in the Drivers side RHD no power, the bulb I took out of the Drivers side RHD, put it in the Passenger side LHS it worked, so there was no power to the Drivers side RHD. Hope this helps. I had similar systems to those described here in my 1999 Grand Cherokee. It turns out that there was a bad connection at the negative battery terminal. After cleaning both the positive and negative terminals and cable ends, everything worked perfectly!

My guess is that the success others are seeings after disconnecting the battery may have as much to do with re-establishing a good connection as some possible reset of the system. Lesson learned (like every automotive manual says) - always check the battery first. When in doubt, put a new battery in. I had a similar problem after trying to jump start my 2002 Jeep GC.

The windows stopped working, the temperature gauge showed -, the interior lights did not come on, the horn did not sound when the remote was pressed to lock the car. I went to Advantage Auto Parts to determine the fuses for the windows and they were all good.

I started searching the internet and found this forum using body control module, which was not the problem. After reading several post, which had the same problems as mine, I decided to try disconnecting my battery to re-boot the on-board computers. I disconnected my battery, cleaned the terminals, which had a little corrosion, reconnected the battery and everything started working again, the windows, lights, horn working when using remote, the check engine light does not stay on. Who would have thought that just re-booting the computers would solve the problem. And I have been involved with computers for over 20 years. I have a 2000 Grand Cherokee 4.0 that runs fine until you try to Accelerate and it feels like it's running on 4or 5 cylinders.

Somtimes just just driving normal at a steady speed it will start shaking. Now here is the weird stuff, if you shut off the ignition and turn it back on if will run fine. Haved change the pcm/ecu by the Brains at the Jeep dealership A mistake!!! Also the head lights will come, blink the go off with nobody in the jeep.

The car will go on the highway for hours and be fine. Also on more weird thing, sometime if your parked and put it in drive and hold the brake it will shake,IF YOU PUT IT IN REVERSE IT WILL BE FINE. I have read with great discouragement, the electrical problems GC jeep owners are having with electrical problems. They range from the 1998 to some 2007 year models. Never had a problem and after 10 years and 130,000 miles, this happens. Since Oct of 2009, I have spent $2000 and the jeep has been in and out of the dealership.

They have tried and ARE still trying to resolve the situation. I went out and got the following from another expert.

I hope it helps someone. My dealership is trying the steps and when or if it's resolved, will update this posting. Good luck, jeep owners. Hope you write Chrysler about this fiasco, I certainly did, although I don't think they really care. Jeep is mud with me as is Chrysler.

My info might have been too long. I'll try this again, these are solutions from an 'expert' with Jeep. How to Fix the Famous Jeep Grand Cherokee Electrical Problem PCI Bus Diagnostics for 1999-2004 (WJ) Jeep Grand Cherokee PCI Bus Diagnostics for 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee PCI Bus Diagnostics for 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee PCI Bus Diagnostics for 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee PCI Bus Diagnostics for 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee PCI Bus Diagnostics for 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee PCI Bus Diagnostics for 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee The PCI Bus system is a one-wire communication system. It allows the various modules (computers) on the vehicle to communicate with each other and share information. This information sharing reduces wiring complexity. The PCI Bus wire is either yellow with a violet tracer, or white with a violet tracer, depending on year and model.

The easiest place to access this wire is at the data link connector, which is the connector that the scan tool plugs into for diagnosis. On LHD North American Jeeps, the data link connector is located under the driver side of the dash, adjacent to the fuse block. It is easily visible without removing any panels. The PCI Bus wire is in pin #2 of the data link connector. Normally I remove the connector from it's bracket and pull it down for better access.

This allows me to backprobe the connector with my voltmeter. You do not want to damage the portion of the terminals which make contact with the scan tool connector. Here are the symptoms you are probably experiencing with a PCI Bus issue: The A/C blows normal volume but the air is not cold, because the compressor will not engage, even with the 'snowflake' or 'A/C' button pressed. The instrument cluster backlighting is ON at all times (when the key is on), even with the headlamps OFF. Power windows are inoperative.

The overhead console displays 'lines' instead of information. The gauges are not reading correctly. These symptoms may come and go. Often PCI bus problems are intermittent. The PCI Bus system operates on a 0 to 7.5 volt square wave. If you were to connect an oscilloscope to pin 2 of the data link connector, on a system with no problems, the oscilloscope would display a nice square wave.

Most people do not have a $2000 scope, so I have devised an easier method. You will need a digital voltmeter to continue. Set the meter to 'DC Volts' Connect the red lead of the meter to pin 2 of the data link connector Connect the black lead of the meter to ground. Any bare metal surface under the dash will work. Turn the key to 'ON'.

Or, start the engine. Sometimes the PCI Bus problem is easier to duplicate with the engine running. Observe the volt reading on the meter. If the volt reading is zero, or very close to zero, it is possible that the PCI bus is OPEN, or SHORTED TO GROUND. A different test will be required, which is detailed later in this article. If the volt reading is close to 12 volts, or battery voltage, the PCI Bus is shorted to voltage, and diagnosis should be fairly easy.

If the volt reading is varying between 0.5 and 2.5 volts, the fault is not present at this time. Verify this by inspecting the operation of the windows and other symptoms. Normally what I see on problem vehicles is a reading of 4 to 6 volts. This indicates that a module (one of the vehicle computers) is pulling the bus voltage too high, causing interference and a loss of communication between modules, which leads to the symptoms you are experiencing. If the PCI Bus voltage reading is consistently above 2.5 volts, we need to determine which module is causing the problem. There is no quick way to do this. Each module on the bus must be unplugged until the voltage returns to the 0.5 to 2.5 and fluctuating range.

Thanks very much for your info. I thought the dreaded electricla issue on my 2000 GC was too much for me having all the classic symptoms so I just took it to the dealer and was charged $400 to be told the instrument cluster had a short and it would be another $1000 to replace. Decided I'd try an ebay cluster for $90 which changed nothing, so I then knew the dealer was attempting to start with the most expensive part and work down and it would cost me $1,000's in the end. I started out unplugging and replugging the modules on your list from easiest to hardest (ECM, radio, amplifier, inst. Panel, driver window. When I got to the pass. Window and pulled the plug everything instantly returned to normal (instrument cluster went normal, a/c worked, readings on overhead display went normal, etc) ordered the $30 window module from ebay and all has been well for most of a month and 650 miles.

THANKS VERY MUCH FOR YOUR INFO. I am having an issue with the keyless remote not working, but that's nothing over the anxiety of driving with that electrical issue. I have an 03 GC.

It has had most of the same issues and more. The info you gave allowed me to find which 'modules' were faulty and I then replaced them. Not to my surprize, the issues came back a few days later. So I am not the best with typing or writing in general, but I have some VERY important things that all GC owners should be aware of. To start this thred correctly, The symptoms I have endured are gauges going hay wire, engine misfireing(shaking), stalling at a light, or while driving,(can hold gas and break at light and it stays on), after coming to stop (idleing fine) it feels as thou it down shifts, (there is a kick that you feel, that jerks the car just a touch, yet very noticable) then the rpms drop and engine dies. (unless you are holding the gas and brake of course) So being fourtunite enough to have the tools and shop that i do, my buddies and I were tired of this car beating us and apparently everyone else.

We started hunting these issues 3 months ago and have been all over looking for an answer. Took it to the dealer same thing 'nothing wrong with it Sr.'

We started on 3/18/11 we decided to dismantle the vehical. So far it is completly apart and we have found a few things that are definetly causing some of these issues.

First one addresses the modules burning out(shorting out) at the factory they took the three power wires and two ground wires and put them in a sleve then wrapped them with electrical tape. They did this wrong! (Side note: I will have pictures posted as soon as i figure out how to post them) If you take of all that electrical tape and sleve, you will see that by having the wires in the same loom tied together real tight like this, that the isualation on the wires has gone bad due to the temp changes and this causes the wires (including the alterantor wires that are in that loom as well) arc across to each other. This issues was found before the tear down of the car, and once i replaced the wires and ran them in a more respectful manner, I no longer had modules burning out. So all of my electrical issues stopped. But still had the stalling issue.

By the way, the battery wires being crossed like they were, burnt up my alternator, starter, pcm,ingnition switch, and a couple modules(trans and ecm). Some other WJ ownwers and friends of mine have opened the loom on their battery wires and had the same exact issue as well. And yes we did find that most of the WJ's in the junk yard also had this exact same issue. As for the tera down. The WJ is completly apart. Complete drive tran, iterior, dash, front clip, rear bumber and canister system, gas tank, and wiring harness(all of them) have been removed for inspection.

Another thing we have found is that the wiring on the top rear section of the engine is prone to rubbing on the head bolt and another section that is to be afixed to the top of the transmission also prone to rubbing, has rubbed enough to thin out the wire and even thou there does not appear to be any expossed wire, they still arc, or ground out. So those wires have been completly replaced and protected properly.

Another issue we found was a celinod in the trans that was defective due to this (proply causeing the down shift issue) will know soon as we are soon to be putting the car back together. In the dash we found a few (again) tightly wrapped wires that we addressed in the same manner. These were right behind the gauge cluster and radio area. We opened the computer (PCM) and found that there may be some issues in there as well. It appers that there is a few bad soilder connections, as they look to have cracks in them.

So the computer is in Florida being 'refurbished'. Some more random things we found were, The neutral safty switch was loose on the side of the transmiision housing, trans mount was also bad, the camshaft possition sensor was bad, crank shaft position sensor checked out ok, the pcm has a service bulletin that was listed for it in June of 2003 listing the need for reprogramming with new software. An issue we have not yet addressed but will soon. It requires 'techCONNECT Workstation' all in all I can't yet say that this is soulving the issues with the car, but will soon have it back together to see the results of the extensive tear down and inspection.

The WJ will back together very soon and I will post any and all cures found. As much as I have read in these forums and tryed to find, I have yet to come across any one simple solution./ Thou I am VERY confident that the battery cables and some other small wireing in the dash having been initially installed incorrectly are a major factor in all these issues. I will keep posting and would love feedback on any of this. Always Persistant, Carsqwerty.

This is an amazing post. I have to hand it to you. Hands down one of the most helpful posts I have seen in a long time. Now fortunately for me the 'reboot (pull power for a few minutes)' method worked for me. However I had a voltmeter on hand and believe it or not.

A friend had an oscilloscope also. I drug all of the equipment out and was ready to go. After that I pulled the battery cables. While waiting I cleaned the battery terminals and buffed up the headlight lenses with some crest toothpaste since they were getting really foggy. I said crest toothpaste. Dont bother buying the super duper buffing kit blah blah. Get some crest and some paper towels or a scotch brite pad.

Plastic ones not metal scratcher. Little elbow grease and pow. Looks about 200x better. Then I pop the positive cable on and crank it down. Then the black. And crank it down. I decide just to check on the off chance the reboot fixed the issue and low and behold when I hit the key it was 75 degrees outside.

The air worked. The windows worked.

And even my check engine light was now off. I have never been so glad to put my tools away and go in the house. The only thing that could make this post any better would be if someone posted pictures of the common locations/areas of pcm/tcm/bcm etc or pictures of the actual parts.

Yea, LOOK UNDER THE HOOD/BEHIND THE GLOVE BOX. It may not be a fuse friend it may be a relay (probably a relay).

2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Driver Door Module

But, check them ALL! You shorted something (there is 10+ possibilities). If you want to tackle the problem let me know.

If you can't, save your time and bring it to a mechanic/walmart. Yea, LOOK UNDER THE HOOD/BEHIND THE GLOVE BOX.

It may not be a fuse friend it may be a relay (probably a relay). But, check them ALL! You shorted something (there is 10+ possibilities).

If you want to tackle the problem let me know. If you can't, save your time and bring it to a mechanic/walmart. Thank you for the advice. I will try to clarify the problem. I havve a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The electric locks and electric windows will not work from the driver's side door controls. I can get the locks to work from the other door.

My window momentarily worked yesterday (once), but will no longer work. In addition, I am now having problems with my dash lights and interior lights.

When I turn my headlights on and try to increase the brightness of the dash illumination, my interior lights come on. I have to turn off the dash lights completely in order for the interior lights to go off. Any additional assistance you could provide, would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for the advice. I will try to clarify the problem.

I havve a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The electric locks and electric windows will not work from the driver's side door controls. I can get the locks to work from the other door.

2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Driver Door Wiring Diagram Diagram

My window momentarily worked yesterday (once), but will no longer work. In addition, I am now having problems with my dash lights and interior lights. When I turn my headlights on and try to increase the brightness of the dash illumination, my interior lights come on. I have to turn off the dash lights completely in order for the interior lights to go off. Any additional assistance you could provide, would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for the advice.

I will try to clarify the problem. I havve a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The electric locks and electric windows will not work from the driver's side door controls. I can get the locks to work from the other door. My window momentarily worked yesterday (once), but will no longer work. In addition, I am now having problems with my dash lights and interior lights.

When I turn my headlights on and try to increase the brightness of the dash illumination, my interior lights come on. I have to turn off the dash lights completely in order for the interior lights to go off.

Any additional assistance you could provide, would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for the advice. I will try to clarify the problem. I havve a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The electric locks and electric windows will not work from the driver's side door controls. I can get the locks to work from the other door.

My window momentarily worked yesterday (once), but will no longer work. In addition, I am now having problems with my dash lights and interior lights. When I turn my headlights on and try to increase the brightness of the dash illumination, my interior lights come on. I have to turn off the dash lights completely in order for the interior lights to go off. Any additional assistance you could provide, would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much!

Just had the same problem with my 2004 Cherokee. I would have never found the problem if it wasn't for this post! You saved me a lot of time, and maybe some money! Mine was the ground wire on the passenger side.

I did also notice the same thing happened on the drivers side, and the person that 'fixed' it did a poor job, so I re-wired that side as well. Again Thank you! Thank you so much! Just had the same problem with my 2004 Cherokee. I would have never found the problem if it wasn't for this post! You saved me a lot of time, and maybe some money! Mine was the ground wire on the passenger side.

I did also notice the same thing happened on the drivers side, and the person that 'fixed' it did a poor job, so I re-wired that side as well. Again Thank you!

I had a problem where at least 5 or 6 wires per door broke. Some of the breaks were so close to the connectors that it was nearly impossible to solder them back on. The problem got so bad that my battery would drain completely because of the dome lights and some wires shorting or creating a low resistance return path. I couldn't even start my jeep until i fixed the wires becuase when I tried to jump it, it pulled down the electrical system. Last ight I finally replaced all of the wires between the body and doors. It an like a champ after I jumped it and let the battery charge. I had a problem where at least 5 or 6 wires per door broke.

Some of the breaks were so close to the connectors that it was nearly impossible to solder them back on. The problem got so bad that my battery would drain completely because of the dome lights and some wires shorting or creating a low resistance return path. I couldn't even start my jeep until i fixed the wires becuase when I tried to jump it, it pulled down the electrical system.

Last ight I finally replaced all of the wires between the body and doors. It an like a champ after I jumped it and let the battery charge.

It sounds like the switches on the drivers side door have gone bad (very common problem with the grand cherokees). I would first test the switch at the harness. Probe the wires to see if the harness is getting power. If it is not getting power than you have a bad relay/fuse. If it is getting power then there is a very good chance the switch has burnt out. Another possibility, there is a kink in the harness going through the door jam causing a short. As for the interior light issue; The switch has more than likely gone bad and needs to be replaced also (the three most common switches i see go on grand cherokees are the door, lights, and heating controls).

Jeep Grand Cherokee Driver Side Mirror

But, before you go about replacing any switch, unplug the harnesses and clean the connectors carefully with some rubbing alcohol, fine git sandpaper, and a little bit of dielectric grease. Sometimes its a simple corrosion issue. Let me know how it works out.

Posted on Jul 16, 2010. Your right it was a broken wire.

My symptoms were: 1 Dim dashboard light 2. No interior courtesy lights 3. Auto Headlights on/off failed they would manually operate with the column control manually. No power mirrors 5. No local door lock unlock function had to use key fob Driver’s door would not lock all others worked with fob. Now power window control.

I read other posts and did the following. Checked the interior fuses, OK. Checked the #12 50 Amp fuse in the engine compartment fuse/relay box, OK. Took the terminals off the battery for 20 minutes as one post suggested and reconnected no result. Pulled the articulated rubber boot off the driver door Jamb and found a 14/16 gage largest of group Orange Wire with a White stripe snapped in half! Disconnected Battery 6. Removed # 25 Torx screw from plastic cover behind interior fuse box so I could get a look at the wire bundle.

Took off rocker panel plastic cover (pulled and wiggle up it has clips and pins holding it. Then removed 3 Philips screws from the tail of the cover to get it out of the way. 9 rotated the plastic clip holding the wire bundle toward the door to get some slack. 10 Spliced the broken wire with #16 stranded automotive grade insulated wire using “Scotch Clips”.

Reconnected battery and everything was OK. The hardest part was getting the.